Build your Own:1 - Introduction

While SLA is an obvious choice for its precision and detail, since I only own an FDM-Printer, and a CNC router is still kind of uncommon, even for many enthusiasts, I tried to make it work using the Bambu P1S. A well squared and calibrated 3-Axis-CNC is, of course, incredibly beneficial and could entirely substitute the manufacture of all of the otherwise printed components, while simultaneously offering the superior option of using higher strength materials. I did use my Shapeoko-CNC to mill the baseplate, onto which all parts are screwed. But again, this is not necessary! Nowadays you can have these parts ordered for fairly cheap – in which case having it made via SLS can be a solid, lower cost option, than CNC-milled aluminium, acrylic or wood. The entire assembly greatly benefits from high precision and dimensional accuracy, so try as best as you can achieve within your means.

It is possible to make it work on entirely 3d-printed parts, although I would recommend getting at least the baseplate milled or you might, at worst, need an additional adjustment option to get the alignment right in the final stages or encounter more difficulties along the way. It is easier to get the horizontal and vertical alignment of the laser beam, and consequentially Raman-signal, right, so use that to your advantage during manufacturing. (The KM100 precision mounts used, are mostly for angular adjustment of the beam or its incidence on the optical part, not the vertical and horizontal axis. Nonetheless, XY-Translation-Mounts can still facilitate the alignment or offset dimensional faults and can be bought or DIY’d relatively easily.)